Hanfu vs kimono
Established in 2003, Poetic Oriental Beauty has built their brand on hanfu photography. The Shanghai-style Cheongsam, especially, conveyed progressive messages of female body emancipation from the 1930s to 1940s; it also came to symbolize the idea of modernity in “pursuing health, fashion, and natural beauty”. The Shanghai-style Cheongsam originated in Shanghai and is a popular and dominant style. Hu (Chinese: 笏; pinyin: hù) The hu was a flat sceptre-like item which originated in China and were originally used as narrow tablets for recording notes and orders and were used by officials. To hedge against the long waiting period, workshops mostly only accept group purchases and wait months until orders reach a certain threshold before launching production. The schools which use this standard include True Light Girls’ College, St. Paul’s Co-educational College, Heep Yunn School, St. Stephen’s Girls’ College, Ying Wa Girls’ School, etc. These cheongsams are usually straight, with no waist shaping, and the cheongsam hem must reach mid-thigh. There are four traditional piping techniques used in the making of the cheongsam: gun (滚; ‘roll’) which is a narrow strips of fabric roll around the raw edge of the garment and is the most commonly used nowadays, xiang (镶) which is broad edging typically found in Manchu clothing of the Qing dynasty and the early cheongsam and is now quite rare, qian (嵌) is a very narrow strip of fabric which is even narrower than the gun, and dang (宕) is a specific type of xiang technique which uses a narrow strip of fabric which is stitched on the dress.
In China, there were also regulations established by the Imperial court which regulated the colour of the jiasha based on ranks but which could vary depending on the different dynastic period. Korea, was a style of paofu, a Chinese robe, worn in ancient China, which was long enough to cover the entire body of its wearer. The cheongsam is most often seen as a longer, figure-fitting, one piece garment with a standing collar, an asymmetric, left-over-right (youren) opening and two side slits, and embellished with Chinese frog fasteners on the lapel and the collar. It is also common for these uniforms to only borrow certain elements, such as the standing collar and frog clasps, without adopting the whole design. It became everyday wear in the British colony of Hong Kong in the 1950s, and leather clutch, high heels, and white gloves were common pairing accessories. A white cotton undershirt is often worn underneath the cheongsam. A few primary schools and some secondary schools in Hong Kong, especially older schools established by Christian missionaries, use a plain-rimmed sky-blue cotton and/or dark blue velvet (for winter) cheongsam with the metal school badge right under the stand-up collar to be closed with a metal hook and eye as the official uniform for their female students.
The Ying Wa and True Light Schools have sent questionnaires to their students about uniform reforms but have not altered their policies. Some rebellious students express dissatisfaction with this tradition by wearing their uniform with the stand-up collar intentionally left unhooked or hemmed above their knees. Although the skirts have short slits, they are too narrow to allow students to walk in long strides. Lighter shades of pink, such as pastel pink or blush, are commonly seen in daily wear. Before World War II, it was customary for girl students who attended schools run by Western missionaries societies to wear cheongsam as their school uniforms; on the other hand, there were very few indigenous Chinese schools that were using the cheongsam as a school uniform. In the Gothic period necklaces were uncommon, though there are a few records of diamond, ruby, and pearl necklaces. The seams above the slits often split when walking and are repeatedly sewn.
129 The Chinese changshan differed from the Manchu men’s neitao as it only had two slits on the sides, lacking the central front and back slits, and lacked the presence of the matixiu cuffs; the sleeves were also longer than the ones found in the neitao. 129 The Qing dynasty Chinese changshan was modeled after the Manchu’s men’s robe. The word qipao (keipo), which literally means “Bannerman robe” and originally referred to a loose-fitting, trapezoidal-cut garment worn by both Manchu men and women, hanfu male became a more formal term for the female chèuhngsāam. It was at this time the word cheongsam became well known in English. Originally only the Manchu households were organized within this system, but over time naturalized Mongols and Han Chinese were incorporated. 129 Han Chinese started to wear the Qing dynasty Chinese changshan after the Manchu conquest; the Chinese changshan was a modified version of the changshan worn in the Ming dynasty (1368-1644 AD), the dynasty preceding the Qing dynasty. For women, heart window cheongsam Manchu and Han systems of clothing coexisted.
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