Definiton of hanfu

Ming Dynasty also brought many changes to its clothing as many dynasties do. They implemented metal buttons and the collar changed from the symmetrical type of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) to the main circular type. Compared with the costume of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the proportion of the upper outer garment to lower skirt in the Ming Dynasty was significantly inverted. Young ladies in the mid Ming Dynasty usually preferred to dress in these waistcoats. The waistcoats in the Qing Dynasty were transformed from those of the Yuan Dynasty. Since the upper outer garment was shorter and the lower garment was longer, the jacket gradually became longer to shorten the length of the exposed skirt. During the Ming Dynasty, Confucian codes and ideals was popularized and it has significant effect on clothing. Changa Ao (Chinese: 長襖) is the traditional Chinese attire for women. There are some kinds of normal Ming Dynasty style Hanfu introductions in following paragraphs. However, it was actually developed from zhiduo during the Ming Dynasty, and is worn over a skirt. It is wide-sleeved, shorter than zhiduo and has no side panels (暗擺) at the side slits (thus showing the skirt worn underneath). It is a form of formal wear, and is often perceived as a longer version of ruqun. There is often an optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing. Daopao/Xingyi (道袍/行衣) is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a full-length robe with side slits beginning below the waist. It is a form of formal wear in the Ming Dynasty. There are side panels (暗擺) at the slits to conceal the undergarments. The collar can be of the same or different colour as the clothing, but has to be of the same colour as the edges of the clothing. It is wide sleeved and has a belt (大帶). The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. An optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. However, other sources states that it evolved from a military-styled tunic, the kuzhe, that was inspired by “nomad warriors from the north”. Despite its name (meaning ‘robe of Taoism’), daopao is worn by all men regardless of religious background. Yuan Ling Shan (圓領衫) is a form of traditional Chinese attire. Chinese sources indicate it has been worn since the Song Dynasty. It is a formal attire worn by men. It is also the most common form of attire for (both male and female) officials and nobles during the Ming Dynasty. The sleeves of the yuanlingshan are mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (琵琶袖, pipa sleeve). It has round collar and side slits. The difference between civilian’s and officials’/nobles’ yuanlingshan is that officials’/nobles’ yuanlingshan has a mandarin square (補子) on it. Men’s yuanlingshan (regardless of civilian’s/officials’) have side panels (暗擺) at the side slits to conceal the undergarments. However, yuanlingshan is not worn alone. Underneath the Yuanlingshan is worn the Da Hu(褡護, sleeveless or half sleeve vest with side panels) and the Tie Li(貼裏，men’s inner dress, sometimes replaced with the Zhi Shen). The collar is secured with a button, and a crossed-collar undergarment must be worn. During an Imperial Funeral, Ming officers wore a grey blue Yuanlingshan (without Mandarin Square), traditional chinese clothing for male buffalo horn panel belt(烏角帶) and wushamao. According to the Ming’s Government letter against Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Ming Government bestowed on him a set of Chang Fu (常服羅) containing a red yuanlingshan with kirin mandarin square(大紅織金胷背麒麟圓領), dark blue Da Hu(青褡護) , and green Tie Li(綠貼裏). This set was known as ‘Qing Su Fu'(青素服). It is a formal attire worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination in Ming Dynasty. Lan Shan (襴衫) is the traditional Chinese attire for men. A crossed-collar undergarment must be worn. It is wide sleeved, has black edges, and has a round collar secured with a button. It may or may not have side slits (with side panels (暗擺) to conceal the undergarment). Bian Fu is a traditional Chinese outfit consisting of a knee-length tunic over a skirt or pair of pants. This two-piece costume was considered to be a ceremonial dress. The tunic for a top that extended all the way to the knees. It has been worn since the Tang Dynasty. This was worn on top of a skirt that reached the length of the ankles. The pien (弁) was a cylinder-shaped hat that accommodated the outfit. The skirt under the tunic was worn only during formal occasions. Zhiduo (直裰), or Zhishen (直身), is the traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a form of casual wear, and is the most common form of attire for men in the Ming Dynasty. It was first worn in Song Dynasty. It is a full-length robe with side slits beginning below the waist, often with side panels (暗擺) at the slits as well to conceal the undergarments. The sleeves are mostly curved with a narrow sleeve cuff (琵琶袖, pipa sleeve). There is often an optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing.

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